How many times did we sit on the beach of Balos, waiting for a small sign between the islands of Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni. Early in the morning, our little group was often the only one there. Then, far out at sea, a tiny red dot would appear and slowly grow larger — it was the small orange-red boat of Captain Sostis Arvanitis.

When he moored at his simple jetty, another unforgettable journey to the volcanic islands began. On the boat, Sostis would tell us his imaginative stories and speak about his early years as a sailor — a hard and painful time that left deep marks on him.

At some point, he decided to settle on the small island of Palea Kameni — a right granted to him by a special decree of the Greek President.

With him, we always reached Nea Kameni, the youngest volcanic island, long before the crowds from the cruise ships arrived. We could enjoy the stunning scenery of the extinct craters in peace, while Tom and I explained the volcano’s history. Meanwhile, Sostis patiently waited for us in the Erinia Bay below.

Later, he took us to a tiny fjord on Nea Kameni, where warm springs bubbled from the rocks — a bath there was always a delight. Many of us covered ourselves with the sulfur-rich, healing mud. Then we continued to his home island, Palea Kameni, where his loyal dog Platon greeted us at the small natural harbor.

Together with our group, we hiked up to the island’s plateau, where we found rare minerals. From time to time, his goats or pigs crossed our path. Sostis lived there as a self-sufficient man in solitude, disturbed only by tourist boats that stopped briefly so that visitors could swim to the hot springs.

For us, traveling with Sostis was a kind of luxury — not material, but genuine. Our destination was always the little bay with the hot springs, where Sostis had built a veranda. There we shared our picnic: he brought homemade goat cheese and sweet liqueur wine from Akrotiri, and we brought tomatoes, bread, olive oil, and fresh tobacco.

With his modest earnings, he turned his barren volcanic island into a small paradise of gardens, paths, and stone houses. He always welcomed us to stay as long as we wished.

Sostis was a kind, hospitable, humble man — one of those souls that are becoming rare on Santorini. He never became rich, but he possessed something greater: dignity, simplicity, and a deep connection to his island.

A few years ago, his weak heart forced him to leave Palea Kameni, and he spent his last years in Akrotiri.

Sostis Arvanitis was a hidden gem of Santorini — a man we will truly miss.
Our memories and photos will forever be tied to Palea Kameni — and to the unforgettable personality of Sostis.

May he rest in a beautiful paradise.