Sostis, the good "ghost" of the volcano

For many, the idea of living alone on a remote volcanic island might seem strange. Not everyone has the strength and willpower to transform a barren, hostile rock into a little paradise. Hermit Sostis Arvanitis eventually left the village of Akrotiri behind and sailed his fishing boat to the older of the two volcanic islands at the center of Santorini’s caldera. There, he found the peace and independence that he had missed in Akrotiri. In time, the Greek government granted him the lifelong right to live on that island.

Despite hardship, isolation, and poverty, Sostis managed to survive on the volcano. What he built with his bare hands is truly remarkable: a small harbor with the chapel of Agios Nikolaos, footpaths he created himself, a modest house, and a simple tavern in the bay with thermal springs. A trail from the crater lake of 1700 leads up to the island’s plateau, where he built a second little house, water cisterns, and a garden for vegetables. Around 70 goats roamed the island, providing the milk for what many say was the best cheese on Santorini.

From time to time, he brought small groups by boat to the volcanic islands and to Thirasia. In his tavern, he treated guests to Cretan barley rusk, fresh tomatoes, capers, olive oil, his cheese, and sweet liqueur wine from Akrotiri – a highlight of every excursion.

Sostis was one of the last true representatives of old Santorini. He resisted the local tourism cartels that disturbed the peace of his bay every 30 minutes during high season. Tourists would swim to the so-called "hot springs," even though they had to jump into cold water and swim around 50 meters to reach them. The springs are only around 28–34°C warm.

Instead, Sostis would take his own guests by boat to a hidden cove on Nea Kameni, where they could bathe in truly warm waters – in peace and without stress.

Every trip with Sostis was an unforgettable experience – something no travel agency could offer. It was never the guide who decided the itinerary, but Sostis himself. And if he wasn’t in the mood, the trip was simply canceled. That’s how he preserved his freedom and resisted commercialization, even though he desperately needed the income from those rare guest groups.

Sostis can be proud of all he achieved. He always had a warm heart for us and our small travel groups. But sadly, his own heart is no longer reliable. Health issues forced him to leave his beloved island and return to Akrotiri. Now he lives under very modest conditions and depends heavily on the solidarity of the local village community. Unfortunately, Greece’s social system offers little help to people like him, and Sostis was never able to save any financial reserves. One would hope that a wealthy island like Santorini could support someone like him.

He accomplished so much – and now there are rumors that his island might be sold. If that’s true, Palia Kameni would lose its authenticity and risk becoming a kind of “Disneyland,” like Nea Kameni already has.

Together with my friend Tom Pfeiffer and our former company VolcanoDiscovery, we experienced many unforgettable tours in the caldera and on his island – thanks to Sostis.

We are deeply grateful for his years of cooperation and hospitality.

It saddens us greatly that this era is coming to an end.

Photos of Sostis Arvanitis
Video of Sostis dog Platon
Photos with Sostis
More about Sostis Arvanitis

The Robinson Crusoe of Santorini...
Another reportage about Sostis Arvanitis (LINK)